DINING
OUT
A French Niche With All the Flourishes
By M. H. REED
Published: November 6, 2005
RYE
HERE at La Panetière, one sits in an
oasis of calm, serenity and understated elegance, the dining
rooms hushed even when every table is occupied. Upon departure,
one wonders why this restaurant, celebrating its 20th year,
is often reserved only for special occasions.
Time is the scarcest commodity these days,
and time is what it takes for companionable diners to enjoy
a complete meal of tempting offerings: just-baked petits
pains and cool clay pots of fresh butter, a dainty amuse-bouche
(perhaps a small flan topped with foie gras or a perfect
shrimp with herbed mayonnaise), appetizer, entree, dessert,
coffee and tiered trays of petits fours.
While a full-course meal remains a luxurious
option, Jacques Loupiac, the dedicated owner, has managed,
without giving up the values and practices of old world
fine dining, to reinvent the pacing to suit today's diners.
Two-course dinners have been added, making weeknight dining
possibilities well within time constraints of busy diners.
All appetizers were impressive, but some proved
more splendid than others, like the assortment of brilliantly
fresh raw fish that included tuna and yellowfin tartare;
a small clam in aspic and domestic caviar; and crisp phyllo
layers heaped with a duxelle and fricassee of both white
and deep-flavored forest mushrooms, a terrific seasonal
offering. Served in a martini glass, crab meat chunks and
crab meat salad mixed deliciously; and remarkably tender
calamari came dressed simply with oil and lemon.
Tart green apple and sweet wine jelly brought
out the heady earthiness of foie gras. Soft, silky pockets
of ravioli were filled with sautéed greens and ricotta
with a sauce of Parmesan cheese providing a piquant punch.
But bay scallops took on a sourness from a citrus compote.
This kitchen's market basket is full of fresh
ingredients, employed beautifully at dinner. But uncharacteristic
carelessness marked a few dishes at lunch. Both oversalted
broccoli soup and underseasoned asparagus soup were disasters.
A huge handful of strong, raw and elderly shallots ruined
arugula and pear salad. Squid-ink pasta bow ties were hard
and their lobster sauce much too salty.
That being said, all fish dishes were flawless,
even transcendent. A beautiful chunk of clean-tasting halibut
may come with vegetables and a mussel sauce or, our preference,
with a fabulous saffron sauce, a mating nonpareil. Even
better was a tied roll (called tournedos) of wild king salmon
- like the melt-in-the-mouth halibut - gorgeously rare and
silky and set on a lavish wine sauce. Sea scallops proved
firm and sweet.
A trio of boned and roasted quails came with
both stewed and whole figs, a sweet port sauce gilding these
surprisingly meaty birds. A bouquet of baby vegetables and
sauce navarin made a fine match for collops of tender lamb,
also prepared Moroccan style with fruit and curry spices.
A special of farm-tamed venison was less gamey but amazingly
more tender than the wild item. With it, a lasagna of pasta
sheets, spinach and béchamel was inspired. Fragrant
truffled demi-glace outclassed a slightly overdone beef
fillet.
For those who would linger over a glass of
wine with dessert, the menu makes helpful suggestions. But
oh, those desserts! Still created by Didier Berlioz, master
pâtissier, they may lack the whimsy of his creations
in years past (we miss the wishing well and Pierrot and
Clair de Lune, almost too precious to consume), but his
impeccable sense of balance, in texture, sweetness and construction
remains.
At least four different chocolates formed
Mikado, impaled by white chocolate chopsticks: flourless
cake, crème brûlée, custard and mousse.
Don't miss freshly made sherbets minut' redolent of seasonal
fruits. Apricot prepared three ways, poached pear Melba,
hot blueberry crisp with crème fraîche , and
pistachio gratin are some of the current greats.
The wine cellar carries more than 900 bottles
of mostly fine French vintages and has, in recent years,
added products from California and other parts of the world.
A good selection of half bottles gives diners an opportunity
to compose personal tastings.
La Panetière
530 Milton Road, Rye. (914) 967-8140.
EXCELLENT
Atmosphere Beautifully landscaped entrance
leads into sunny redecorated dining areas with hand-painted
Provençal figures and garlands. Low noise level.
Service is graceful and attentive. Jackets required for
men at dinner.
Recommended dishes Crab meat cocktail, mushroom
tart, foie gras, calamari salad, green ravioli, roasted
quails, tournedos of wild salmon, venison (special), loin
of lamb, halibut, sea scallops, sherbets minut, trio of
apricot, hot blueberry crisp, pistachio gratin, poached
pear. Menus change seasonally. Some dishes are available
at lunch.
Prices Lunch, all items appetizer size, $5.50
to $18; table d'hôte, $25 for three courses. Dinner,
three courses, $62; two courses, $48; five-course tasting
menu, $78, $123 with wine pairing; . lapanetiere.com for
other special menus.
Credit cards Major cards.
Hours Lunch, Tuesday to Fridays, noon to 2:30
p.m. Dinner, Monday to Saturday, 6 to 9:30 p.m.; Sunday,
noon to 2:30 p.m. and 5 to 8:30 p.m.
Reservations Always advisable.
Wheelchair access Ramp.
The Ratings Excellent. Very good. Good. Satisfactory.
Poor. Ratings reflect the reviewer's reaction primarily
to food, with ambience and service taken into consideration.
Menu listings and prices are subject to change.
Review published: Nov. 6, 2005
E-mail: westdine@nytimes.com
