Westchester
A Contemporary Twist on Traditional
French
By M.H. REED
Published: January 13, 2008
FACED with today’s dining trends toward grazing, fusion
cuisine (particularly Asian), and the use of local and organic
foods in a lighter style of cooking, most traditional French
restaurants have been forced to beat ’em, join ’em
or simply close up shop. Jacques Loupiac, owner of La Panetière
in Rye, has decided to join ’em, gingerly, and his
new direction is clear.
Like provincial figurines
and ubiquitous roosters, lavish multicourse meals may have
had their day. The décor at La Panetière has
been pared down somewhat, and the look is more contemporary,
dependent on dramatic spurts of brilliant color —
in table napkins and floral arrangements — against
stark white tablecloths. Special menus now offer small plates:
half-portions at half price at lunch; and a two-course meal
at dinner.
Although dishes are still
listed mainly in French — a holdout that can’t
possibly last— Mr. Loupiac increasingly gives credit
to American products; we have boeuf du Kansas, agneau du
Colorado, homard du Maine and canard de Long Island. Assimilation
may be slow, but this French restaurant seems to be recognizing
its American heart.
A beginning of fresh petit
pain with butter from a cool gray crock and a tiny lagniappe
— perhaps a thimble of squash soup — whet the
appetite for the artistically arranged dishes that followed.
Juicy partially boned quail cooked under a brick arrived
on a bed of frisée laced with sweet-tart citrus sauce,
the faultless arrangement punctuated by a poached quail
egg and a small mound of caramelized endive. The sweet and
the tart were employed brilliantly again in relishes that
countered the richness of duck terrine scattered with bits
of black truffle.
Set as though on a painter’s
palette, a seafood assortment made a delightfully light
and refreshing starter: a fresh oyster, a bit of caviar,
smoked salmon tartar and tuna, a hint of wasabi on a small
salad of greens. With these top-notch starters to choose
from, bland bison carpaccio could be skipped.
The names of a couple of
appetizers were misleading. A lasagna included no pasta
but layers of excellent forest mushrooms. A special ravioli,
also bereft of pasta, brought crab meat sandwiched between
two translucent slices of turnip. (True, ravioli is derived
from the Italian word for turnip, but this is not something
most diners would pick up on.)
A row of chanterelles gave
earthy support to an entree of grilled Kansas beef, the
smooth tenderloin full of meaty flavor; and roasted garlic
flan and baby fennel lent their soothing yet distinctive
flavors to silky riblets from a rack of tender Colorado
lamb ($4 surcharge).
Our only complaint about
superb Dover sole with beurre blanc, melted shallots and
boiled potatoes was the classic presentation; the white
on white effect needed some color relief. In general, colorful
vegetable garnishes were absent in the design of many entrees.
Big scallops were rich and clean in a fragrant sauce thickened
with mascarpone. Poached lobster carried a surcharge of
$4, but the hefty chunk was carefully poached to the precise
tender moment. Only black sea bass (bar) was overcooked
and mealy.
In the past, we’ve
always enjoyed the clean, cool fruitiness that a freshly
made sherbet imparts. Recent, more substantial indulgences
have included a comforting warm crepe filled with molten
chocolate and an elaborate, rum-raisin-flavored tart (beaudinardise)
deliciously paired with icy espresso crystals topped with
warm mocha foam. Other desserts met with less success: a
pear needed further poaching; a chocolate “velvet”
book cover held layers of hardened chocolate mousse; and
the citrus of winter sun (soleil d’hiver) was stingingly
astringent.
If changes here are geared
to woo a larger pool of American diners, the menu could
be more user friendly. Few diners know or care about prep
details like brunoise, matignon, emulsions or mousselines.
The proof has always been in the eating.
In this area of noisy restaurants,
La Panetière offers an oasis: a hushed dining room
with well-spaced tables at which diners can have and hear
their own conversation. Then there’s the food: most
of it carefully crafted, delicious and presented with, well,
panache.
La Panetière
530 Milton Road
Rye
(914) 967-8140
www.lapanetiere.com
EXCELLENT
THE SPACE Gracious dining
areas with elegantly appointed tables. Beautifully landscaped
approach is handicapped accessible.
THE CROWD From dating couples
to groups of seniors, all appreciative of this dining room’s
low noise level. Professional service.
THE BAR Excellent cellar
of French wines and a good selection of products from California.
Quite a few half-bottles available.
THE BILL Lunch: Choose from
small plates (half portions from the à la carte menu)
or the complete three-course lunch for $25. Dinner (including
an amuse-bouche and petits fours): $52 for two courses,
$65 for three. A few items have a surcharge of $4 or $6.
WHAT WE LIKE Quail under
brick, duck terrine, assiette de la mer, poached lobster,
lasagna of forest mushrooms, coquilles St.-Jacques, rack
of lamb, Dover sole, grilled beef tenderloin, crepe with
chocolate, beaudinardise, sherbet.
IF YOU GO Lunch: Tuesday
to Friday and Sunday, noon to 2:30 p.m. Dinner: Monday to
Saturday, 6 to 9:30 p.m.; Sunday, 5 to 8:30 p.m.
Reviewed Jan. 13, 2008
